Croatia – Day 7 – Split
Wednesday, 21-Jun-2017
Tags: Travel
We were off at 9:30 AM to Split and its old town, basically Diocletian's Palace, with a vibrant city within. The plan was to drive along the coast, stopping at a viewpoint along the way, spend the day in the city with a guide starting at 1:30 PM, heading late afternoon to the Ivan Meštrović Gallery, driving to the Klis Castle, and eating at a nearby lamb restaurant.
Arriving at Split, with a spectactular view along the way, we rushed through the southerly "Brass" Gate on the waterfront through the cellars filled with shops to Peristyle Square (Peristil) for the noon-time greeting by "Diocletian" and his wife.
We then headed over to the Entry Vestibule, the grand entry, a circular room with great acoustics, gathered in the center of the room, singing "Amazing Grace", no particular reason for the choice other than one we all knew.
We wandered on our own until about 1:30 PM, stopping at the farmer's market to buy some cherries and almonds. We admired the ruins in the midst of a living city.
We then headed back through the cellar to meet up with the group.
We met outside the Brass Gate by a cafe on the waterfront for the beginning of our tour by Rafaella.
Diocletian, born in Salona (the original city destroyed in the 7th century, now Solin, a suburb of Split), Emperor for 20 years (284-305 CE), retired to Split, taking 11 years (and the lives of 2000 slaves) to build his palace. He is known for splitting up the empire into 4 parts and for his persecution of Christians (the following emperor, Constantine, legalized and made Christianity the official religion).
Note that the waterfront we were standing on is in the water on this picture :)
Rafaella was an amazing guide, passionate and full of knowledge. We first headed to the synagogue, just outside the walls, but the volunteer who was going to open up for us did not show as she hoped, so we headed back in for our tour.
We visited the Cathedral, which incorporated Diocletian's Mausoleum, minus his long gone (destroyed) tomb, and the Baptistry which was once Jupiter's Temple. The statue inside is John the Baptist, done by the great Croatian Sculptor, Ivan Meštrović. We walked through the Golden Gate on the north end, the main entrance with its double door entrance. We finished up by the Brass Gate area walking around the area that was once Diocletian's quarters and promenade, and then walking back through the gate to the waterfront.
Baptistry/Jupiter’s Temple Ceiling.
John the Baptist sculpture by Ivan Meštrović.
Bell tower and Cathedral (Mausoleum) from ruins of Diocletian’s quarters
Diocletian’s promenade, with the walls to the left the walls (with reconstructed arches) of the southern side of the palace.
Outside the Golden Gate, looking at the double entrance.
After a bite at a cafe, we drove to the Meštrović Gallery west of the old town. Ivan Meštrović is considered the most important artist in Croatia – sculptor (but also painter, architect, and furniture designer). His works are displayed in his palace, designed by him as his residence, studio, and exhibition space. He lived from 1863-1962, his later life in the United States, having fled after WWII.
Added from the web: one of the outdoor sculptures.
We then drove to the fortress in Klis, a short walk up a hill, and took in the view of Split.
View of Split from the Klis fortress.
Close by was the Perlica restaurant, where we dined on lamb roasted on a spit – the lamb was tasty but there was a lot of bone and gristle as well – perhaps the best parts were gone by the time we got to the restaurant rather late. We also had cabbage salad, tomatoes, and very nice roasted vegetables and potatoes – and of course wine – this variety was Grasevina – a very pleasant white wine.
Finally home, another long day.
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Larry and Eileen Samberg
